Los Angeles Beneath The Hollywood Veneer

In two short weeks, Los Angeles was determined to change my unfavourable, preconceived notions by showing me the city is more than just lingering smog, horrendous freeway traffic, shiny Hollywood movie veneer and overrated tourist traps. Prior to this, I never had any longing desire to visit Los Angeles. ‘Overrated’, ‘undesirable neighbourhoods’, ‘smog’, ‘hollywood tourist trap’ is what I had heard over and over again, and by osmosis, believed for a long time. So in January 2016, I suppressed my preconceived ideas and spent time in LA for a girls weekend. Scattered all over the States and world, we started an annual girls weekend get-together; and for this trip, we decided to visit our friend Dana who lives and works in Orange County; I was going to say LA but that would be incorrect, it’s Orange County for the record. However, for the sake of simplicity in this post, LA refers to anywhere within the sprawling metropolis stretching from Mulholland Drive in the north, all the way down to Dana Point in the south. And yes, our friend was born and raised in the area, and yes, the story goes she was named after the famous Killer Dana surfing spot by her Dad. As the weekend transpired, we had a surprisingly super-sized fun weekend exploring LA from a ‘local inhabitant’ perspective. Preconceived notions where truly shattered.

The first couple of days, we made several unsuccessful attempts to see the famous sparking blue Pacific Ocean while driving along Dana Point and Laguna Beach. The weather was being stubborn and had other plans; there was so much dense fog rolling in off the ocean and hugging the coastline, that for a moment, I thought I had taken the wrong flight and landed in San Francisco. This was my first surprise about LA, the fog not smog. Once the fog finally decided to head north where it belongs, I saw the Pacific ocean, stunning coastline and fell in love with Laguna Beach. The area has a charming, relaxed beach feel with gorgeous houses sprawling gently up the hillside, art galleries galore, and rocky outcrops surrounding little beach coves. Charming even on cloudy, winter days.

Aside from Laguna Beach, the places we ticked of our girls weekend must-see-LA lists were: Venice Beach; Santa Monica Pier; Los Angeles County Museum of Art – LACMA; Huntington Beach/Pier (half tick – apparently its nothing special according to my friend Dana, so we saw the colourful night lights of the pier whizzing by from the passengers seat of her car – I trust her, she is a local). We completely avoided the cliche tourist places like Hollywood Walk of Fame, Movie Studio Tours and Disney Land, wanting to spend girls time sampling the local wine bars rather than standing for hours in endless queues, only to see something that millions of tourists see. We were searching for an authentic LA local experience which was spectacularly delivered via our friend Dana. We were taken to local bars and restaurants in suburbs we had never heard of (such as Five Vines Wine Bar in San Juan, Side Door in Corona del Mar, Gleenleaf Gourmet Chopshop in Costa Mesa, and South of Nick’s Mexican Kitchen in San Clemente). And our sightseeing days were bookended by lots of strong coffee in the morning and potent cocktails and/or wine in the late afternoons, peppered throughout with crazy girl conversations and uncontrollable laughter.

What fun and adventures we had. We spent one evening drinking delicious strong margaritas at Red O and taking silly unpublishable, blurry group-selfies on Santa Monica pier. Eating delicious Mexican from food trucks parked outside LACMA before seeing a Frank Gehry exhibition and wandering aimlessly around the permanent collections. Freaking out (well, me freaking out) along Venice Beach boulevard at the sheer number of homeless people, drug addicts and dodgy street vendors casually mixed in with blasé tourists and exercise junkies before scurrying back to the safety of the trendy Abbott Kinney shopping street. Being completely surprised by the trendy fashion style walking around Abbott Kinney: LA girls in lots of black jeans, black ankle boots, black sweaters, check plaid shirts and white tops. Such a effortless casual LA look. I don’t think I had seen as much black since I lived in Melbourne about four years ago. I guess it was winter though. Sitting in the infamous bumper-to-bumper, chaotic and aggressive LA highway traffic. Being taken to quaint suburbs that I had never heard of before like San Clemente, in search of great wine bars and Mexican food. Accidentally spotting a famous person, well a famous person’s name, when we stumbled across the Kirk Douglas Theatre while searching for a place to eat in Culver City.

I feel fortunate to have experienced what I consider the real LA, away from the tourist traps, tours and celebrity spotting fanatics. We laughed, drank way too many cocktails and bottles of wine, and hung out in our flip flops. Even though it was winter in California, jeans, t-shirts and flip flops were our standard daily outfits. After our fun long weekend together we sadly said our goodbyes. One friend flew back to Greenville, South Carolina and the other drove back to her now quieter house in Orange County. I hired a car and headed up to Santa Barbara, and over to Palm Springs for more southern California adventures. I returned to LA for a couple of days at the end of my trip, and booked into a hotel in Westwood as a treat before the arduous, long-haul flight back to Perth, Western Australia. I didn’t want to leave. There is so much to do, see and experience in LA. I was fortunate to spend a few extra days in LA exploring the Getty Museum, Malibu, Mulholland Drive, Rodeo Drive, and the Hammer Museum. One of my proudest achievements during my trip was surviving driving on the other side of the road in the mad, chaotic LA freeway traffic; and my biggest regret was not visiting the fabulous vintage stores dotted along Melrose Place – this will have to wait until next time.

In two short weeks, LA changed my preconceived notions of her (her because I think LA is a woman – unpredictable, stubborn, frustrating, magical, awe-inspiring, chaotic, beautiful, something to be treasured) by showing me the city is more than lingering smog, freeway traffic jam nightmares, shiny Hollywood veneer and overrated tourist traps. LA seeped in under my skin and left an aching desire to return to continue my LA story.



















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